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In the beauty business, secondary packaging has primary importance
August 24, 2005
By: Jamie Matusow
Editor-in-Chief
A plain brown paper bag can hold a sandwich as easily as a fancy wicker picnic basket can. The difference is presentation—which also explains the range of choices in secondary packaging in the beauty business. It is a huge category, encompassing everything from the most practical and mundane paperboard box and blister pack to gift set boxes and bags made of exotic materials, and a wide range of accents—ribbons, bows, seals and tassels. Secondary Packaging Has Primary Importance For the prestige market, secondary packaging is a silent spokesman for the brand, according to John Fling, vice president of design for packaging of the Estée Lauder brand. Fling said, “Secondary packaging must accomplish three things: it must immediately convey that the product inside is stylish and prestigious, it must enforce recognition of the Estée Lauder brand and it must clearly convey all of the information necessary for the consumer to understand and want the product.” An essential of the Estée Lauder esthetic is understated elegance and so the brand isn’t one for many frills, according to Fling, who explained, “We don’t tend to embellish our packages, but we constantly look for new techniques to update the surfaces, feel and perception of quality to our secondary packaging.” And because the Estée Lauder brand image must constantly be protected and enhanced, maintaining a balance between newness and tradition is critical. Fling emphasized, “I think the challenge for us is to develop packages that signal new, innovative products and still retain the immediate recognition of the brand.” Mary Kay is a brand in transition. Continuing to serve its traditional customer, while reaching out to a new audience is part of its secondary packaging strategy. Beth Ludwig, director of Mary Kay global color marketing, noted that the company developed bright pink cartons and individual designs (graphics differ for lip products, face products and eye products) for its new MK Signature line of color cosmetics to make a strong fashion statement. Along with changing the primary packaging to clean, metallic containers in a platinum shade with subtle gold accents, the outer cartons now feature a two-toned, hot pink heart pattern for an upbeat, youthful look. Looking to reach out to teens and 20-somethings, Mary Kay created its Velocity fragrance, with a bright, energetic young woman in mind. The scent is a “fruity floral” but the packaging conveys a message before anyone smells the fragrance. The bottle is presented inside a clear plastic column, which not only gives a full view of the upside down, slanted bottle, but also adds a re-use factor important to this target market, according to Ludwig. “Other merchandising aids such as bags and boxes, allow our sales force to enhance their personalized service for their customers,” she explained. “So important in direct selling, these tools enable our sales consultant to bundle and merchandise products—a value-added service for the customer whether buying for herself or as a gift—all while reinforcing the brand and its positioning.”
Selling Innovation on a Budget But if marketers credit secondary packaging with its practical and esthetic contributions to enhance the product, most are also making decisions with budgets in mind. Many packaging suppliers reported that convincing marketers of the value of new and exciting ideas is a greater hurdle today. “Our greatest challenge is to re-educate the cosmetic manufacturer to the benefits they will have in using new and exciting packaging ideas,” stressed Cindy Sanmillan, marketing and sales manager for the sewn products division of Equality Specialties, a supplier of notions and plastic accessories, New York, NY.
A supplier of polypropylene boxes and cartons, Envision Packaging by Jeffco, Tucson, AZ, is often asked to provide a high-end package at a low-budget price, according to Sharon Smith, company spokesperson. And Dayton, OH-based Neff Packaging Solutions, a company that designs and manufacturers paperboard cartons, must deal with a lack of vision, according to Brian Lynch, the company’s director of new business development. Today’s greatest challenge is “Convincing brands to spend more money to create an experience around their brand that will influence the consumer to buy their products,” Lynch said. Cost competition from overseas suppliers is a challenge for J.L. Clark, a Rockford, IL manufacturer of tinplate containers. “We know the customer wants the most for his/her money,” said Todd Waxgiser, national accounts manager, “but because we are here (in the U.S.), it is easy for the customer to be present at press runs for quality control and we can offer on-time delivery.” And for those projects where domestic production can’t make up the difference, the company has formed a relationship with a Chinese plant to be able to offer packaging from China. Innovation Set to Serve Despite whatever challenges the economy is presenting, suppliers of secondary packaging are a generally optimistic group, who are excited about new products and prospects for the future. Envision’s Smith said, “We believe the industry is looking forward to HBA this fall and is ready for some new and exciting ideas from suppliers. It seems a lot got put on hold the end of last year and we need this time to encourage and support each other.” Boxes and Cartons Offer Fashion and Function The use of the frosted see-through look in beauty packaging is a hot trend, according to Smith, who added, “The elegance it adds to the final product projects a high perceived value, no matter what the price.” Envision’s Natural Frost is the number one choice in color selection right now, and Smith noted, “We are getting more requests for odd shapes, like pyramids, and different type of closures instead of a standard tuck box.”
The company will exhibit a new finish for its polypropylene products at HBA. The new finish promises a ‘new look’ for the finished product package, according to Smith.
Roskoplast, a French supplier of clear packaging made of PVC, PP and PET, offers folding boxes, sleeves, envelope bags and shopping bags. Recently the company worked with Azzaro to create packaging for its Orange Tonic line. The packaging mixes translucent and metallic opacity for a fresh look that reflects the citrus fresh nature of the fragrance. Roskoplast also created a box for Helena Rubinstein’s mascara utilizing offset printing, silk-screening and hot stamping for a modern, prestige look.
Curtis Packaging, Sandy Hook, CT, manages to design and create folding paperboard cartons that “not only appeal to the consumer but satisfy the requirements of marketing, package development and operations as well,” said Anthony J. Colica Sr., Curtis’ vice president sales.
Colica explained that the company has converted many set-up box users to a simplex/double-sidewall box construction that Curtis calls its Hybrid Box. “Although the design has been around for some time, we are calling the Curtis rendition the ‘Hybrid Box,’ because our aim is to give the customer the required look, plus be able to design, develop and supply the extra features too; ie, vacuum form inserts, trays and/or clear covers,” Colica said. “We have found that the simplest package can make quite a show. The package is used mostly for gift sets, but we have produced products that serve for regular line products as well.” Curtis has the flexibility and expertise to handle a variety of substrates. Colica stressed, “Foils, holograms, etc. fit very well. Basically, anything produced on standard folding box stock can be used in the simplex/double wall style.”
The Chicago Paper Tube & Can Company has been developing tubular packaging since 1898, but has become more active in the high end packaging segment for beauty and personal care products in the past 10 years, according to Chrissy Dudlek, sales manager. “Everything (from Chicago Paper Tube) is round and paperboard based, except for the top and bottom, which can be other materials,” Dudlek said, “and everything is custom.” The products, available in a variety of diameters and lengths, can be further enhanced with different finishes—matte to metallic—as well as decorated with embossing and labeled tops, foil stamping and foil interiors or exteriors. Constructions can be rolled edge, composite, fluted outer surface and screw cap. The hottest new trend in paperboard boxes and cartons is the use of new substrates such as brushed foil, as well as the use of holographic enhancements, and gold or silver foil, embossing and UV coating according to Neff’s Lynch. The use of metallic inks in pastel and silver shades is on the rise. “Everything is going very industrial in feel with metallic finishes like brushed aluminum, but shapes are moving from boxy to curved or softer lines,” Lynch said. Neff’s Samplepac, Spinnerpac and seamless Bookstyle cartons are very popular with the beauty category. As a supplier that provides primary packaging and promotional packaging, Lynch stressed that the two are totally different categories and brand marketers should keep them separate. He also cautioned that when “lead times are shorter, design creativity is paramount, because total costs can kill a great marketing idea if it is not executed properly.” Taylor Box Company develops the structural design and manufactures paperboard boxes at its Warren, RI facility. “Complex packaging is on the increase,” according to Julie Passey, sales and marketing manager for the company. “Customers want more detail, a slip case, a ribbon-pull.” The company works with various printers for the box wraps and other manufacturers for the vacuum trays that so often nest inside Taylor’s boxes. Recent projects for the beauty business include a unique box with hinged doors for Hugo Boss and boxes for Anne Taylor.
Cytydel Display Technologies, Gardenia, CA, has patented its HexPack packaging concept to help marketers present multiple item gift sets or salon packs in a unique way, according to Eric S. Kim, director of sales and marketing. Transparent boxes are available from Visipak, a division of Sinclair & Rush, Arnold, MO. The boxes can be custom ordered with no tooling charges and ship flat, according to MaryLou Pudlowski, marketing coordinator for Visipak. “Packaging graphics can be printed directly on the box eliminating label or header card costs,” she added. Bags of All Types Gifts-with-purchase and gift sets in general often use a tote, drawstring bag or purse of some sort as an added value/attraction.
The creative team of Techpack-Cosmetech Mably International, New York, looks to global fashion centers for inspiration for its original and extensive collection of fabric bags. Suitable for promotional items and gift sets, the custom designs Techpack-CMI offers are available in an array of fabrics, materials, designs, colors and prints.
Many of the company’s clients are requesting new ways to do fabric-covered boxes, according to Kathy Davis, director of product development at Techpack-CMI. “We add details such as zippers, buckles, lace, metallics and unusual bead ornamentation to make the boxes look new and fabulous,” Davis explained. Each project is client-driven with bags and boxes designed to conform to shapes required to hold the intended product. The design team at Techpack-CMI suggests alternative shapes and treatments to showcase the product and maximize counter presence.
Colored vinyl, especially tinted shades, are a hot trend in the beauty segment, according to Steve A. Jeffrey, president and owner of Imex Vinyl Packaging, Charlotte, NC. “Frosted blues and greens are hot as well as bright colors such as those being used in the latest VW Beetle models,” Jeffrey noted. Imex will be showing off new products at HBA, featuring new fabrics and enhancements.
Specialty Materials The Baruch Company, Alexandria, VA, specializes in PVC bags, often in combination with elements and embellishments of wire, wood, wicker and/or fabric. “We are doing a lot more work with PVC covered boxes as an outgrowth of fabric-covered boxes,” said Andrew Eyck, president of Baruch. IBC Shell, Lake Success, NY, offers every imaginable kind of container for packaging and is known for its design department, according to Norman Kay, company owner and president. He noted that extremely complex projects are handled by speaking directly with the customer, as well as the use of the Kulkas System, a computerized method to produce samples that are very precise. “It (Kulkas) will not allow us to produce a sample that can not be made automatically, unless we specifically over-ride that control,” explained Kay. “We do over-ride depending on the project, because we can hand finish products to customer’s specifications.”
The hottest new fashion trends in boxes, according to Kay, are new materials and substrates. “Design, marketing, packaging and sales promotion departments thirst for the latest materials to excite the eye, and to create a unique environment for their brands,” said Kay, and IBC Shell is answering that need with a menu of innovative products. New products and technologies especially suited to the beauty category, according to Kay, include Toobz, a new structure that combines the attributes of folding cartons, rigid set boxes, and spiral wound tubes. “We have created an entirely new ‘field of design possibilities’ with the dimensional flexibility that Toobz offers,” Kay stated. Also new are: Supreme Silk, a soft, shimmering material suitable for folding box fabrication and decoration, which is equally suitable as an elegant substrate for vacuum-formed inserts and displays; RubberTek, a novel material with the modern, high-tech look and feel of neoprene that can be used to cover a box, and HotWeave, a new material that can replicate the look and feel of twills and other fabrics. And Cellessence, the result of a combined effort of IBC Shell Packaging and Cellessence in England, is said to be an entirely new aqueous encapsulation that can replicate a brand’s essence on the outside of a package, the inside of a package, marketing collateral, labels and a wide array of materials. Metal Containers Offer Added Value J.L. Clark recommends its tinplate canisters and cans as packaging that is added value for beauty and personal care items. The company supplied a cylinder to hold Tommy Hilfiger’s Tommy Cranberry Burst shower gel and Tommy Girl cologne, which will have extended life long after the Tommy products have been removed. “Consumers use the cylinders to store all kinds of things or as decorations, said Waxgiser. “They continue to be in use, keeping the brand in the awareness of the consumer. A candle marketer came to J.L. Clark for a container that would be eye catching and nostalgic to hold a candle to be sold at Harley Davidson dealerships. Looking like a small can of oil, the tin opens to reveal a candle. “They wanted to be able to place the tins near the checkout as a impulse/gift item. The men are Harley Davidson fans and the women like the candle,” stated Waxgiser. “They’re having a great response.” In keeping with the fashion trend to metallic looks, the company can print colors directly onto the steel so that the finished container has a metallic glow.
Ribbons and Bows “There is a big trend toward packaging products in organza pouches,” said Sanmillan of Equality Specialties, “and shades of reds and blues seem to be hot for next year.” The company offers an extensive variety of ribbons, bows, tassels and cords in all shapes and sizes. Sanmillan said that for skin care products, packaging made of combinations of organza and clear vinyl bags are in demand, while more sophisticated materials such as linen and novelty materials are being requested for fine fragrance presentations.
Equality Specialties is introducing a snap-in-a-box-bag (trademark pending) that packs flat and snaps open instantly, which are customized to client specifications. Graphics on the inner box show through the organza drawstring bags. Trends for ribbon embellishments are seasonal, according to Diane DelVecchio, sales and design director of Lawrence Schiff Silk Mills, New York, NY. “Currently, we’re having a good reaction to a sheer ribbon and a shadow strip ribbon which alternates sheer and satin stripes,” DelVecchio said, adding, “Pinks, celadon, wisteria, some blues and peach are the colors being used. Colors are seasonal and it’s not quite holiday just yet.”
Most ribbons are added to beauty packaging to dress up a container for a particular holiday promotion such as Christmas, Valentine’s and Mother’s Day. In addition to traditional ribbons, Lawrence Schiff supplies satin ribbon that is embossed or printed with the brand’s name or logo, as well as metallic mesh ribbons and satin ribbon with a metallic fleck or metallic edges. “We are getting more and more requests for stretch ribbons, especially stretch velvets as well as ribbons 5/8” and wider,” said Aaron Swarthout, sales manager for Ribbon Connections, Inc., based in San Leandro, CA.
Sealed with Something Special For packages that need that extra finishing touch, the prestige division of Stoffel Seals, Nyack, NY, supplies packaging enhancement with medallions and seals, according to David Feldman, sales manager. “We work with such substrates as plastic, pewter, zinc, aluminum and paper,” he said, adding, “Some of our customers will combine our plastic medallions with ribbon and attach it to their packaging.” Such a ribbon addition is very popular right now, according to Feldman, although it adds an additional assembly cost. “Although the use of ribbon is not the most economical presentation,” Feldman noted, “I believe it is worth the cost. It adds tremendous value to the packaging and help a product differentiate itself from the many other products at retail.”
Blister Packs Can Be Special Too Telmark Packaging Corp., Hazlet, NJ, supplies blister packs for many mass market products. “This kind of packaging is more the ‘bread and butter’ of the business,” said Eric Ludwig, president of Telmark. “Everyone wants a traditional look because plain and simple is cost-effective, but if they took the time to customize the graphics they could create a unique look in the least expensive way,” Ludwig stated. “Marketers should try to keep an open mind to the possibility of doing something better. If they convey the idea to the supplier, most are ready and willing to create something new and different.”
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